We would like to thank everyone we’ve worked with over the years, our customers and our manufacturers. MB Sports builds one of the highest quality Wakeboarding Boats in the industry, EPIC Wakeboats has the largest wake in the industry and a solid quality product also.

We’ve worked hard to make everyones boat ownership experience great. To continue that tradition, we looked hard at other boat dealers to see who should service our customers when we were gone. In lieu of not finding satisfaction in this area – we’ve decided to work with Jamie Clifton and his brother to provide all MB, Epic, and Chris Craft services required. Many of you already know Jamie from his work as head mechanic at Southern Ski Boats. No one in Virginia knows these boats better – or can take care of our customers better than Jamie.

If you have any service needs, give Jamie a call at 804-896-4612. You can also reach him at the Southern Ski Boats Facebook site.

To all our customers out there – it has been a pleasure…
Southern Ski Boats Co.

This is the first time that the Virginia Tech Wakeboard team has qualified for nationals in both the Collegiate Wake Series and the Alt Games National Championships. With wins in regional qualifiers in both series, Virginia Tech has high hopes for the spring.

This weekend we didn’t spend our time at just the competition site.  The team alsospent a day at the newest cable park in the country, Wake Nation. The team spent a whole day riding cable, grinding sliders, and hitting kickers at Wake Nation. The team was working hard competing and learning new tricks at the cable park. It showed in the increased appetite of the team as another highlight of the trip was the twelve person team nearly beat the world record for most fast food consumed in a single weekend. The Virginia Tech Wakeboard team has now visited every Chipotle in the Fairfield, OH area.

This is the last competition that the Virginia Tech Wakeboard Team will attend this calendar year. With tournaments starting back up in the spring time, the team will ride as long as weather permits and hopefully stomp some new tricks before the winter off-season rolls around.

Josh Settlage – VT Wakeboarding President

(The VT Wakeboard team is sponsored by Southern Ski Boats & EPIC Wake Boats)

Owner Lora Bouchard remarked “We’ve been working towards this goal since last November – almost a full year now. It is great to finally get approval from the City of Petersburg to open this new center up for business. Our boat cliental is very particular about the paint and bodywork that we do on their boats. Taking these same skills to autos is a natural progression. Especially since our body shop personal have previous experience in both boats and cars.”

Southern Ski Boats is a full service boat dealership – selling EPIC and MB Sports Wakeboard boats. They have a full service mechanical center and a full service fiberglass/boat restoration center. With the addition of the auto body shop – they can fix and restore any toy or project you have.

For examples of their work – or to contact them for you’re next project, go to the ‘body shop’ section on their website:  Southern Ski Boats Body Shop

Our initial plan was to ride Friday when we arrived and show off the boat during the competition, and we certainly got our money’s worth. Right after the beginner class had ridden, the tow boat for the competition ran into engine problems that prevented it from towing the rest of the competition. We jumped at this opportunity and had our EPIC in the water before the director of the competition could find us and ask us if we would be willing to pull the event.

With reporters from Alliance Wakeboard Mag, Empire Wake, and riders from 8 schools looking on, our shiny white EPIC with “VT Wake-Pulled by Epic” branded on the hull drove out of the marina and made a bee line for the competition site. We loaded up the judges, threw the line to the first rider, and never had a problem the rest of the day.

We pulled the competition for about 8 hours (women, intermediate, advanced, open, and wake skaters) on less than 2/3 of a tank of fuel.

The common theme of the day was how blown away all the riders were by the enormous wake (when we told people they were riding with no ballast they didn’t believe us). The Epic shredded through some choppy wake at certain points of the day, but that didn’t stop the riders from going huge and laying down some “epic” sets.

What could have turned out to be a dismal day ending with a cancelled tournament ended up to be outstanding and tons of fun for the riders, spectators, and event workers. We were absolutely stoked to be able to promote our club and sponsors in front of such an awesome crowd of riders and high profile personnel. VT Wake made a big impression Saturday but we couldn’t have done it without the awesome support of EPIC and Southern Ski Boats.

At the end of the day I was pleased to find that the table we had set up with brochures for EPIC, Southern Ski Boats, and stickers for VT Wake had been all but completely cleaned out. Many people had never seen an EPIC in person before and I had many people asking me about it all night.

VT Wake made a strong showing in Atlanta, and not only did we place high enough to put us at 8th in the nation, but we made some great friends and met tons of people in the sport of wakeboarding that we will keep in touch with for a long time.

The Virginia Tech Wakeboard Team is traveling to Cincinnati, OH this weekend for the third stop in the CWS. The team hopes to place first and take the top spot away from our good friends at FSU.
Wish us luck!
Josh Settlage-VT Wakeboarding President

Photos are property of www.JKellerPhotography.com

It is best to store your boat over the winter with as little fuel (as reasonable) in the tank.  DO NOT FILL YOUR TANK FOR WINTER STORAGE. This flies in the face of the way we’ve been winterizing boats over the past 50 years.  In the past – one would always fill the tank to eliminate condensation in the tank.  Because of this, many of our customers are showing up to get their service with full tanks of gas.

Another difference many folks don’t realize is the gasoline stabilizer used with Ethanol blended gasoline is different from the gasoline stabilizer used in the past.  Ethanol needs different chemicals to stabilize correctly.  Only use a stabilizer made for Marine and Ethanol blended gasoline applications.

Below are a few additional facts each boater needs to know about the new Ethanol blended fuels:

As many of you already know – the Gasoline that is distributed throughout the world today contains ethanol.

Ethanol has several characteristics that can create problems in marine fuel systems.  It acts as a solvent (especially against fiberglass tanks) and it attracts and holds water (rusting steel tanks).  The additional water, varnish, foreign particles, sludge, and gums that are created or freed by the ethanol can enter or form in the fuel system.  These can clog fuel filters and damage fuel system components (pumps, injectors, carburetors).

Our current marine engines from the major manufacturers (Volvo, Mercruiser, Indmar, PCM, Yamaha and others) and all configurations (Outboard, Inboard, Inboard/Outboard) can only handle up to 10% Ethanol content.  (Do not ever put E15, E20, Flex-Fuel or any gasoline with more than 10% Ethanol in your boat).

If you have any other questions – give me a call at the shop, Jamie  804-524-0600   Southern Ski Boats Co.

We will be scheduling other days depending on demand.

This should take a lot of the hassle out of having to bring your boat somewhere.  Next on the scheduling list will be our local rivers like the Chick and Upper James, then we will start rotating back through the Lakes again.  Give us a call ASAP to reserve a spot.   Jamie  804-524-0600      Southern Ski Boats Co.

Types

Hydraulics

Rudders

Jet Drives

A jet drive is like an internal propeller. It pulls in water and air and pushes the water out to turn the boat. By releasing the jet drive on the port, or left side, of the boat, you can turn the watercraft in that direction. Jet drives are primarily used on small, fast boats. Jet drives are used on larger boats in conjunction with cable and hydraulic steering units to add extra power to the steering capabilities when needed. Jet drives can only be used for forward movement and turns. Bow thrusters can add momentum when backing up into docks or other small areas as required.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

• Shop rags
• Flashlight Phillips screwdriver
• Ratchet and socket
• Floor jack
• two jack stands

Step 1

Park your car in a safe place and open the hood. Find the power steering system on your vehicle. The easiest way is to follow the part of the steering column assembly that goes through the firewall (the engine compartment wall on the windshield side of your car). Follow the components connected to the steering column all the way to the wheel assemblies and hoses connected to the power steering pump and reservoir.

Step 2

Clean wet and dirty components around the steering system, using shop rags if the leak source is not readily apparent. Start the engine, rotating the steering wheel all the way from left to right several times to increase system pressure. Turn off the engine and inspect the system from the engine compartment, using a flashlight if necessary. In some cases, you might have to wait one or two days for the leak to reveal itself .

Step 3

Carefully check around the power steering pump, looking for possible cracks. if you find fluid around the pump case, the case is damaged and should be replaced. Some pumps are equipped with internal seals that may be replaced when necessary. Also, look around the reservoir and make sure it is in good condition, since a cracked reservoir needs to be replaced as well.

Step 4

Look around fittings and hoses. A loose fitting might not be able to contain the high pressure in the system. Tighten clamps using a Phillips screwdriver or ratchet and socket, depending on the type of fitting or clamp used in your system. Also, check along the hoses for cuts. If possible, run your fingers along the length of the hose to find hidden wet spots. A hose leaking somewhere along the middle will have to be replaced. If the cut is very close to the end of the hose, you might be able to cut off the damaged part and reconnect the hose to the component.

Step 5

Check metal lines connecting the steering gear assembly to other components. A ruptured metal line needs to be replaced.

Step 6

Inspect around the rubber boots located between the ends of the steering gear assembly and the arms linking the assembly to the wheels. If fluid is leaking at either end, seals at the ends of the steering gear assembly will need to be replaced. If necessary, raise the front end of the vehicle using a floor jack and support it on jack stands. Inspect the steering gear assembly more closely to see if it is in good or bad condition .

Boat steering problems should be solved at the earliest opportunity ashore, just like steering problems in the family car need to be fixed before going on a trip.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Step 1

Isolate the problem location.

Start at one end of the steering system, usually the steering wheel, and work backward through the entire system. As you inspect, you may have to have another person turn the wheel so that you can see the effect on the element of the system being inspected.

Step 2

Determine the nature of the problem.

Is a part broken, bent or missing? If broken, replace it. If bent, can it be repaired? If missing, can it be replaced? The most frequent problems are stiff or frozen steering, problems with steering cables and problems with broken or missing pulleys.

Step 3

Replace, repair or adjust elements as necessary.

Frequently, problems can be solved with a simple bit of maintenance, like lubrication, but more complex problems, like broken pulleys or damaged cable in cable steering, or a damaged or broken pump or ram in hydraulic systems, can be fixed quickly by simply changing out the part that is not operating as it should.

Changing out parts may seem expensive, but is usually more effective than trying to rebuild something that, once repaired, may break again.

Step 4

Test your solutions.

Again, have another person turn the wheel while you watch the results. If the problem persists, return to Step 1. You may have cured one problem, but there may be more than one problem with the steering. Evaluate and repair each separately.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Step 1

Troubleshoot an outboard motor by first checking the spark plug wires. Make sure each one is connected securely. Also check that your battery is connected to your outboard motor with good, clean connections. Check your battery for a full charge.

Step 2

Consider the power head when you troubleshoot an outboard motor. The power head is a box mounted on the motor. It distributes electricity to the spark plugs. If it’s not operating properly, there will be no fire to your outboard motor. This prevents your outboard motor from starting. You must have a certified outboard mechanic to fix this problem.

Step 3

Check the water flow going through your outboard motor. If your motor is running hot, normally you don’t have enough water flow going through the motor to cool it. This means your pump propeller might be broken. Your pump is located in the lower end of the foot of the motor. It is a round disc with impellers on it which circulate water through the outboard motor.

Step 4

Look at the propeller itself in order to troubleshoot an outboard motor. If you put your motor in gear and your boat doesn’t move, what has usually happened is that you’ve sheared (broken) the pin in your propeller. The shear pin in your propeller keeps your outboard motor from being torn up if you hit a stump or rock or if you run aground. When it is broken, the shaft will turn, but your propeller won’t. This is a safety feature. The pin can be easily replaced with a new one.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Step 1

Fill the tank with fresh fuel. Fuel lines should be connected and in good repair, not kinked or broken. Inspect for signs of oil or fuel leaks. Oftentimes when a motor doesn’t run right, there is a problem with the fuel supply. Always check the easiest things to repair first.

Step 2

Make sure that the battery is charged. Actually, it’s a good idea to recharge after every use. Clean terminal connections often so that they do not become corroded. Check to see that all connections are tightened. Battery cables should be in good condition as well. Keep the top of the battery clean and dry, as trouble with a battery can affect the performance of a boat’s engine.

Step 3

Inspect the spark plugs and replace any that look worn. Check gaskets, hoses and belts. Replace any hoses or belts that are cracked or brittle. Keep the engine clean and well tuned.

Step 4

Check the level of oil in the engine. Make sure that it hasn’t been contaminated with water. Change the oil and clean or change the fuel filter as needed.

Step 5

Test steering cables by turning the wheel hard from side to side. If the boat has power steering, check the power steering fluid. Refill if fluid is low. Check the fittings around the helm for leaks. At regular intervals, remove the steering wheel and lubricate the helm shaft with waterproof marine grease to prevent corrosion. Do this to boats with either power or manual steering.

Step 6

Examine the propeller and rudder for signs of wear or damage. This can cause the boat to use more fuel.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

• Socket wrench set
• Wrench
• Cheap dish soap

Step 1

Find the water pump on your engine. This is located in the lower part of your engine, near the lower gears. The locking bolt is located on the motor’s housing, directly above the propeller. Use your wrench to loosen the top bolt.

Step 2

Remove the exterior housing to expose the casing and drive shaft.

Step 3

Use a socket wrench to remove the four bolts that lock the head of the pump to the drive shaft. Make note of which bolt went into which hole.

Step 4

Remove the pump. Use both hands and apply pressure to the head of the pump to remove it.

Step 5

Replace the impeller. This is the metal sprocket that sits on the drive shaft. Simply remove the old impeller and replace with the new one.

Step 6

Replace the casing of the pump. You may notice some resistance when reinstalling the pump’s casing. If you find that the housing will not install correctly, coat the inside of the housing with dish soap. This provides enough lubrication to slide the casing on.

Step 7

Replace the bolts, locking the casing to the motor, and reattach the outside of the outboard motor.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Step 1

Start the outboard installation procedure by getting the right size outboard for your boat. Outboard motors should never exceed the manufacturer’s recommendation limits of the specific boat.

Step 2

Examine the transom to be sure the outboard’s propeller shaft won’t drag the bottom in shallow water. The brackets may have to be adjusted if the outboard has a long shaft.

Step 3

Read through the manufacturer’s installation information. This should be kept with the boat information. The manufacturer will clearly state exactly how to install the outboard.

Step 4

Slip the outboard into the clamp bolts. These attach the outboard to the boat.

Step 5

Tighten the clamps by hand. The bolts should be flexible enough to allow the outboard to be pivoted out of the way as it is locked onto a trailer or lowered into the water.

Step 6

Tie off the outboard with a strong cable and lock to prevent theft.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Step 1

Start the outboard motor. Use the pull crank to start the engine. You start the motor by making sure it’s in neutral and the throttle is set to start, make sure you pull out the choke and then pull the starter rope much as you would a lawn mower. Once the engine starts, push the choke back in and back off on the throttle. Larger outboard motors are typically equipped with electronic starters.

Step 2

Move the shift lever for the motor to the forward position. Apply power to the motor by moving the throttle lever forward or on a smaller motor by twisting the handle. The farther you advance the throttle the faster the boat will move.

Step 3

Push the handle of the outboard motor to the left side of the boat. The farther you push the handle the sharper the turn. This applies to smaller motors, whereas larger motors and boats are directed by a steering wheel. For boats and motors of this type, you steer them just like a car. The transfer linkage between the steering wheel and the motor compensates to allow the boat to turn in the direction the wheel is turned.

Step 4

Push the handle towards the right side of the boat to turn to the left. This is the same as step three but in the opposite direction.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

• Torpedo level

How to Trim an Outboard Boat Motor

Step 1

Boat Trim Problems and Causes

Determine how the vessel is riding in the water after all passengers and “stuff” is aboard by using a torpedo level placed along the center line of the boat on one of the seats of the boat, or on the deck. If the bubble moves toward the bow, the stern is higher than the bow (trimmed by the bow); if the bubble moves toward the stern, the bow is higher than the stern. Outboard motors are designed to push the hull of a boat through the water in a position as close to level as possible. Maintaining this near-level condition will provide optimum performance and stability.

Step 2

Trim Angle Adjusting Rod

Locate the trim angle adjusting rod on the bottom of the clamp which secures the motor to the transom of the boat on smaller outboard motors.

Step 3

Too Little Angle Buries the Bow

Move the adjusting rod forward into a hole closer to the bow, increasing the angle between the mounting bracket and the transom. This will cause the thrust from the propeller to raise the bow slightly when making way through the water and help prevent sluggish handling or an unsafe condition: in extreme cases, the bow of the boat will try to bury itself in the water.

Step 4

Too Great an Angle Swamps the Stern

Move the adjusting rod aft into a hole farther from the bow to lower the bow and raise the stern slightly by decreasing the angle between the mounting bracket and the transom. This will prevent the stern of the boat from trying to dive underwater when power is applied, a condition called “squatting.”

Step 5

Trim larger outboard motors by using the trim switch which is remotely operated and usually located on the boat’s instrument and control panel.

Difficulty: Challenging

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

• Camper’s headlamp
• Socket set
• Screwdriver
• Lithium grease

Step 1

Take the key out of the ignition switch and pull the emergency lanyard (the line that clips to the operator’s life jacket) out of the emergency stop switch. Move engine control handle to the neutral position.

Step 2

Remove the prop and the gear case cover with a socket wrench. Locate the splice connector at the end of the speedometer tube that comes out of the top of the front side of the gear case. Pull the two ends of the splice connector apart. On top rear of the gear case, there is a plastic plug; pry it out with a small screwdriver. Under the plug, there is a bolt. Using a socket wrench (and a socket extender, if necessary) loosen the bolt completely and remove the trim tab (the fin just above the prop).

Step 3

Remove the gear case by removing the bolt below the the place where the trim tab was mounted and remove the two bolts on either side. If the gear case won’t come out easily, hit the plate above the prop with the side of your fist to break it loose, or pry gently with a screwdriver. Remove the gear case by pulling it straight out. If the old gear case has locating pins and the new gear case does not (they may be sold separately from the new gear case), transfer them from the old gear case to the new gear case: they are critical to gear case alignment.

Step 4

Grease the drive shaft and shifter shaft splines by wiping them with a rag covered with lithium grease, which is available at most auto parts stores. Visually inspect the control handle to make sure that it is in neutral and turn the shaft of the gear case to make sure that it is in neutral as well. If it is not, move the drive shaft until the gear case shifts to neutral. Slide the gear case up into place. If it is not aligned with the water pump housing, it will will not go in all the way.

Step 5

Gently push the drive shaft upwards, into the mid-part of the motor; push up until it reaches the of the crankshaft. if it won’t go all the way to the bottom of the crankshaft, have a friend turn the motor flywheel clockwise until the drive shaft and crankshaft are aligned. When the crankshaft and the drive shaft are aligned, lower the drive shaft just enough to insert the speedometer through the hole line up the shift shaft, push the gear case all the way up and insert one bolt finger tight to maintain alignment. Replace the prop.

Step 6

Set the motor control handle to the forward position, then try to spin the prop. The prop should not move turn. Return the control handle back into the neutral position; the prop should spin freely in both directions. Set the control handle to reverse. The prop should not move. Replace and tighten all the bolts, reinstall the trim tab, push the ends of the splice connector on the speedometer cable together. Then replace the gear case cover, replace and tighten all bolts and test-run the motor.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

• Boat with an inboard motor.
• Wakesurf board
• Rope with handle (preferably a surf rope)
• Rope catcher
• Driver

Step 1

Have your feet on top of the board (boart sideways to the boat) while you lay in the water (feet pointing towards boat with body behind). Have the rope tied to the highest spot on the boat nd have the rope in hand ready to go.

Step 2

The diver then needs to put the boat in gear and slowly power up to about 5 miles and hour. During this time the rider needs to use his/her feet (or hand) to push the side of the board vertically up so that it builds water resistance.

Step 3

When the board is building the water resistance, use that resistance and the rope to pull the top of your body to the position of standing ontop of the board and the water. In this time you should also turn the board to point towards the boat.

Step 4

The boat at this point should power up to the speed of the maximum wake size (probably between 9 and 15). The rider should pull more of the rope towards them pulling his/herself toward the boat.

Step 5

Once you get to about a foot or two from the boat you should be in the area of the “sweet spot” where your board will get its push. If you feel that you are going too fast put weight on the back of the board, yet if you feel you are going to slow, put weight on the front of the board.

Step 6

Once you get to a spot that you are riding the swell, throw the rpe to the rope catcher. If you start to move back remember to put weight forward, and vice versa. If you feel that you are going back too fast and cant go back forward, have the rope catcher throw you the rope so you can keep going.

Here you’ll find a step-by-step breakdown of how to stand up and take off.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Step 1

Lie in the water with your feet facing the boat and the board perpendicular to the way the boat is pointing. Draw your knees up close to your chest. Have your feet sitting on the board.

Step 2

Hold the handle tight with one hand. Hold the board against your feet with your other hand by grabbing the top rail.

Step 3

Ask the driver to put the boat into its lowest gear so it moves slowly. Make sure the base of the board is pointing towards the boat. The slow momentum should press the board to your feet. You can now grab the handle with both hands.

Step 4

Get the boat driver to accelerate. Now push your back foot down on the board.

Simultaneously stand up on your back foot as you also swing the front foot around so your board is pointing forward.

Difficulty: Challenging

Instructions

Step 1

Get the correct equipment. To properly wakesurf, you will need a wakesurf board, a proper wakesurf rope, and a speed boat with an inboard motor and a rope tie overhead. If you can’t find the proper equipment for wakesurfing at your local store, visit one of the many online stores.

Step 2

Know which way you surf. Before you get started, take a minute to figure out which direction you want to surf. If you surf, skateboard or snowboard regular foot (left foot forward), line up in the water on the right side of the boat. If you are a goofy foot (right foot forward), line up in the water on the left side of the boat. You aren’t supposed to cross over the wake while wakesurfing.

Step 3

Create a big wave. Have all the other people and objects of weight in the boat sit on the side of the boat that you are wakesurfing on. This will create a bigger wave for you to surf.

Step 4

Let the boat do the work. Getting up on a wakesurf board is no different than a wakeboard, the boat does most of the work. Even though your feet are not strapped in on a wakesurf board, you will be secure. Trust yourself.

Step 5

Use the rope as a guide. Once you are up and wakesurfing, the rope is really only there for guidance. You are supposed to surf on the wake as you would if you were surfing in the ocean. Only use the rope if you feel like you are losing the wave or about to fall. Think of it as a crutch.

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Instructions

Step 1

Be confident jumping from one side of the boat’s wake to the other. To do a 360, you’re going to need big air. You’ll also need to have mastered the 180 and be very good at passing the ski rope’s handle from hand to hand while in the air and turning.

Step 2

Do the Surface 360. When boarders talk about a 360, they are talking about the Air 360. That the best 360s are done in the air is just a given in the lingo. However, you do need to learn the Surface 360 first before you take it up high. Start with a Surface 180, hold it there for a minute and then continue with the rotation.

Step 3

Pull the handle in towards you while turning in the same motion. Let go of the handle with your trailing hand, bending the elbow so that the handle will be at the small of your back. Grab it with your other hand while your body is turning all the way back around.

Step 4

Approach the wake to do a 360 (Air 360). This is basically two 180s done consecutively in the air. It should look like one spin. Make sure that the rope’s handle controls your rotation. You don’t want your waist to do the work or you’ll look sloppy at best, face plant at worst.

Step 5

Start your spin at the height of your jump after you pop off the wake and pass the handle. Keep your eyes up on the horizon, not down at the water to keep your board flat and on axis. Once the handle has passed from one hand to the other, completely your spin is easy.

Step 6

Spot the water early and loosen your muscles to absorb the landing. Knees bent and handle low. Catch the water on a slight heel side edge to avoid smacking on a front edge. Once you’re really good at the 360, it’s time to add to them with grabs and heelsides.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

• Wakeboard
• Floating vest

Step 1

Relax your body and float on your back before you initiate a deepwater start. Float in your vest without controlling your movement to stay loose as the boat begins to move.

Step 2

Align your wakeboard perpendicular to the boat to get in the right position. Novice wakeboarders often align their boards with the boat, which diminishes their stability as the speed increases in choppy waters.

Step 3

Keep your legs staggered, with your dominant leg forward, to control the front of your board. You should line up both of your arms outside of your lead leg to maintain a good grip on the rope.

Step 4

Allow the natural tension created by the boat pulling on your rope to keep your body crouched. Start with your board underwater and your knees will begin to press toward your chest as you initiate your deepwater start.

Step 5

Press your lead leg down on the front of your wakeboard as the boat achieves full speed. You should apply enough pressure to keep the tip of your board just above the waterline to avoid falling off your board.

Step 6

Stand slowly on your wakeboard as you prepare to perform tricks. You should allow the boat to reach its top speed before you extend your legs and straighten your back into a normal stance.

Step 7

Practice your deepwater wakeboarding start on land before you do any tricks in the water. You can utilize a shallow pool and your wakeboard to practice relaxing your body and maintaining control over your rope

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Step 1

Purchase or rent a wakeboard with adjustable foot straps. When you become more advanced, you can also use boots. Familiarize yourself with the board.

Step 2

Put your feet in the foot straps and adjust them to your feet. Stand with your shoulders parallel to the board to make sure the fit is comfortable.

Step 3

Get behind a boat in the water allowing enough room between you and the boat so there’s no slack in the pull rope. Hold onto the rope handle with your arms slightly bent. Squat with your feet in the foot straps or bindings, leaning slightly backward.

Step 4

Bring your body up out of the water slowly as the boat pulls you up. Let the right end of the board point out of the water slightly to the side. Be careful not to lean too far back or forward.

Step 5

Stand with your board almost parallel to your shoulders, but keep the front pointed at a point halfway between your right shoulder and the boat. Stay wakeboarding in the center of the wake.

Step 6

Turn to the right by leaning your body slightly to the right. Turn to the left by putting your weight up on your toes and leaning your body slightly to the left.

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

• Wakeboard
• Ski rope
• Boat capable of pulling a wakeboarder
• Ski gloves (optional)
• Coast guard approved ski vest

Step 1

Choose a dock that is in at least three feet of water and clear of obstructions. Make sure there are no nails or wood splinters on the dock.

Step 2

Put on a Coast Guard approved ski vest. Sit down at the end of the dock, and strap both feet into the wakeboard.

Step 3

Place the wakeboard into the water with the tip up and the fin (if you are using one) on the bottom. If your wakeboard cannot reach the water, make sure that you can safely land on the water once the boat begins moving. The greater the distance between the dock and the water–the harder it will be to accomplish a successful start.

Step 4

Grasp the handle of the ski rope when it is tossed from the boat. Signal the driver to move forward by using hand signals or “Tighten up!” Allow a foot of slack line before moving on to the next step.

Step 5

Yell, “Hit it! or “Go,” and tense your body. The slack from the rope will tighten and pull you. Maintain the tension and resist the urge to be pulled forward. Transfer your weight from the dock on to the wakeboard and crouch low. Maintain your balance as the boat picks up speed.

Step 6

Continue to maintain balance until the boat reaches your wakeboard cruising speed. A comfortable speed is around 18 to 20 mph for beginners. Enjoy the ride and experiment with various wakeboard tricks.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Step 1

Use the proper equipment and signals. Often wakeboarders use a shorter rope than a standard water-ski rope and attach it to a pylon. The pylon gives the wakeboarder extra height for doing jumps. Also have a Coast Guard approved life jacket for the wakeboarder, boat driver and all passengers. The driver, wakeboarder and spotter should also be familiar with standard hand signals for speeding up, slowing down, going home and stopping.

Step 2

Maintain a constant speed. The exact speed will vary depending on the wakeboarder’s size, weight and experience, but it’s usually slower than one would use for water skiing. Some boats have PerfectPass, which is a cruise control for boats. Other boats just have speedometers, so that you can tell how fast you are going, and some boats have neither. In the case of neither, the driver needs to pay extra attention to the boat’s speed and the factors that can determine it such as wind, weight in the boat and the roughness of the water.

Step 3

Drive straight. This makes fewer waves for the wakeboarder and will allow him or her to make more cuts across the wake. This also goes hand-in-hand with finding smooth water. Avoid busy areas and really rough water.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Step 1

Determine the necessary breaking strength for what you’ll be towing. Ropes for towing people need only a low breaking strength, while ropes for pulling vehicles, particularly ones stuck in mud, need a much higher strength. Polypropylene ropes for water skiing have a breaking strength of 800 pounds, while inch-thick nylon ropes for towing vehicles have a breaking strength of up to 25,000 pounds. Inch-think steel cable in excellent condition has a breaking strength of 10,000 pounds, while half-inch-thick chains break at 2,400 pounds.

Step 2

Evaluate the elasticity of the rope material. Polypropylene rope is slightly elastic, allowing water skiers to slalom across the boat wake without being buffeted or knocked down by it. Nylon rope can stretch up to 35 to 40 percent of its regular length and when it breaks, it snaps back to the point where it was attached. Steel cable, in contrast, whipsaws wildly when broken, as can chain. Some modern synthetic ropes have much less stretch and therefore a greatly lessened chance to recoil.

Step 3

Consider the breaking strength of the item to which the tow rope will be attached. Most towing hooks break at 4,000 pounds; a broken hook can move with the speed and deadliness of a bullet. Similarly, trailer hitches and bumpers can break loose and become deadly projectiles.

Step 4

Have a sufficient length of rope for the job. Water skiing ropes tend to be 70 feet in length, with color-coded sections to allow for shortening the rope to make slaloming more challenging. Vehicle towing ropes need to be of sufficient length to pull the towed vehicle without risking getting the towing vehicle in a situation where it too needs to be towed.

Requirements

Unlike automobile insurance, states generally do not have laws that require any type of minimum insurance coverage for boat owners. However, South Carolina is one state in which liability insurance or a bond is required for boat owners. Individuals should check with their state Department of Motor Vehicles for any coverage requirements. If a boat is financed with a loan, the bank may require listing them as a loss payee on the policy.

Coverages

Individuals who own a boat need to know what coverages are included as well as excluded on their policy. Most policies include coverage for theft, fire, sinking, collision and vandalism. Insurers typically exclude personal effects, medical payments and uninsured boater coverage from their boat insurance policies. Coverage for personal watercraft, dinghies and trailers used to haul a boat can also be excluded from a policy.

Actual Cash Value

Many boat insurance policies use the actual cash value of the vessel when a claim is submitted to an insurer. Actual cash value is the market value of the boat as determined by the insurer when a total loss occurs. An insurer will use various methods for determining the value of a boat including market guides as well as the age and condition of the boat. Depreciation is also used as a factor when determining the actual cash value of a boat.

Agreed Value

Another option for the value of the boat when a claim is filed is using an agreed value. An agreed value is an amount or value for the boat that is agreed on by the insurer and the insured. This means that when a total loss occurs the insured will receive the agreed value that is stated in the policy. A boat insurance policy may also provide replacement cost, which is similar to agreed value, in which an insurer will replace the boat with a similar make and model if the original type is not available.

Reducing Premiums

Boat owners who pay for insurance coverage may not know that there are options available to reduce the amount of premium that is paid for a policy. One way in which to reduce policy premiums is to take a boating safety class. Boat owners can also increase the amount of the deductible that applies to their policy. A typical deductible can rage from 1 percent to 5 percent of the value of the boat or hull, depending on the insurer.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

• Boat
• Computer

Step 1

Evaluate the kind of insurance you need by classifying your boat. If your vessel is up to 26 feet long, then you can insure it as a “boat.” If it is beyond 26 feet long, it is classified as a “yacht” and requires coverage under a different insurance plan. Also determine the value of your boat and its depreciation. This will facilitate the decision about the right kind of coverage for your boat.

Step 2

Contact the National Boat Owners Association (see below). Become a member if you are not, as it provides several services and information on how to own and maintain a boat. You can also get valuable information on whether your boat needs insurance.

Step 3

Go online and visit some of the special insurance Web sites. For example, you can log on to the American Boating Association site (see below), which will help to get a quote for insurance. Alternately, you can also call agents or representatives of selected companies to get free guidance. United Marine Underwriters (Web address also below) is one of the oldest companies providing boat insurance.

Step 4

Analyze each type of coverage, especially on physical damage. You can opt for actual cash value or agreed cash value when choosing physical damage coverage. Depending on the type of cover you choose, your premium will vary. Liability coverage protects you from legal action in case of accidents and events. Medical coverage insures you and others present on the boat in case of an accident.

Step 5

Be sure to check into uninsured boat owner’s coverage, which covers damages to your boat in the event you are involved in an accident with another boat owner who is not insured. As boat insurance is not mandatory, it is always advisable to get this coverage if your boat is a prized possession.

Difficulty: Moderately challenging

Instructions

Step 1

Review your basic options. An inboard engine is the most powerful and is located in the boat’s hull. Cheaper outboard engines clamp onto the transom. Inboard/outboard engines combine the power of an inboard with the maneuverability of an outboard.

Step 2

Understand the trade-offs between inboard engine types:

Step 3

A direct-drive engine is located mid-boat and sends power directly from the engine to the drive shaft to the propeller. Direct drives with their flat bottoms are preferred by skiers because they produce small wakes, and handle and track better. The flat hull, however, makes riding on choppy water a bouncy ride; and the engine, smack dab in the middle of the boat, uses up prime seating.

Step 4

V-drive boats have rear-mounted engines and a deep V hull that cuts through chop without a blink, but produce a large wake. Some feature ballast tanks that can be filled for even bigger wakes, making wakeboarders ecstatic, then drained again for skiers. The engine location allows for quieter, more sociable seating. Tow lines attach from a tower high above the cockpit.

Step 5

Meet in the middle. Recognizing the market’s changing needs, boat builders have designed crossover boats. Mostly featuring direct-drive engines, these “all-event” boats have ballast tanks that hold up to 1,600 lbs (597 kg) with adjustable trim-plates. So fill it up and create monster wakes, or dial it back down for the skiers; one boat happily serves both camps.

Step 6

Investigate available amenities. Swim platforms make it easier to climb into the boat after a hard run, and overhead racks stow gear safely away.

Difficulty: Easy

Instructions

Electric Bilge Pumps

Step 1

Locate your bilge pump. Your primary bilge pump should be located at the lowest point of the vessel when afloat. For most craft large enough to have a pump, this means you’ll have to lift a hatch and look at the hull. You might see a secondary pump, if you have one, a little further up the hull.

Step 2

Find the three stage switch. The stages indicated should be “Auto,” “Off” and “On.” If the switch hasn’t been cleaned in a while, it may be difficult to read the stages, which should be either right-to-left or top-to-bottom in the order given.

Step 3

Change the switch setting to “On.” If placing the switch into the “On” position doesn’t activate the pump, turn it to “Auto” and lift the float. This should activate the pump.

Step 4

Return the switch to “Auto” when you’re finished, unless you’re drydocking the vessel. If drydocking, turn the switch to “Off.”

Hand and Manual Pumps

Step 1

Locate the handle. Since hand pumps look a bit like bicycle pumps, this should be a hand pump attached to the main cylinder. Manual pumps involve a handle, which should be pretty obvious.

Step 2

Place the hose so that it dumps the bilge into a desirable location, not on your craft.

Step 3

Position the bilge pump, if it isn’t already, so that it’s at the lowest point of the bilge. This should be where the most bilge is at. There may be a pump there, such as an electric, already. Simply position the manual pump where it will not interfere with the operation of the other pump, but nearby.

Step 4

Use the handle to move the rod so that the pump begins to move the bilge through the tube. Essentially this will be an “up and down” motion, though manual pumps will probably move along an arc instead of straight.

Step 5

Pump until there’s an acceptable amount of bilge in the hull.

Difficulty: Easy

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

• 1 gal. biodegradable oil-emulsifying bilge cleaner
• Wet/dry shop vacuum
• Rags
• Oil absorbent pads
• Large plastic trash bags

Step 1

Launch your boat, if it is not already in the water. If your boat has a float-operated (automatic) bilge pump, turn the bilge pump off. Pour 1 qt. of the bilge cleaner into the bilge for each 24 feet of boat length. The rocking motion of the boat over a period of hours will distribute the bilge cleaner in the bilge.

Step 2

Allow the bilge cleaner to remain in the bilge throughout the course of a day’s boating activities. If your vessel is moored on a buoy or docked at a pier, allow the bilge cleaner to remain in the bilge overnight.

Step 3

Pump your bilge to an approved shore facility. Pumping your boat’s bilges on lakes, rivers or other navigable waters is punishable by a fine of up to $10,000 under federal law.

Step 4

Use the rags, wet/dry shop vacuum and oil absorbent pads to mop up or otherwise remove any oily water remaining in the bilge after your boat’s bilge compartment has been pumped out.

Step 5

Remove any debris from the bilge, place the debris in large plastic trash bags and discard in an approved container. It’s rare, but it happens occasionally that food–or even fish or other marine life–have found their way into your bilge and died. Neither the bilge pump nor the bilge cleaner will remove this kind of debris. Turn the automatic bilge pump back on.

Difficulty: Easy

Instructions

Step 1

Troubleshoot a bilge pump by first checking the switch position. Make sure that it is in the on position. A bilge pump is supposed to turn on and off automatically when needed. It has a type of float device sensor that causes the pump to automatically turn on when the water reaches a certain level. Once the water is pumped out, the pump should turn back off.

Step 2

Consider the possibility of a worn out or defective switch if your bilge pump won’t come on at all. Check for a blown fuse. Look for worn or broken wiring. If you replace your fuse and don’t have any bad wiring, you may need to replace your switch (or the whole pump).

Step 3

Make sure that you are using the correct size fuse when you troubleshoot a bilge pump. If it keeps blowing fuses frequently, you may be using a fuse that’s too small to handle the job. Also make sure that you clean out the strainer of your bilge pump regularly. If too much debris builds up, it can cause a strain on power and cause a fuse to blow and could overheat the motor of the bilge pump.

Step 4

Check for a loose or leaking hose as another possibility when you troubleshoot a bilge pump. If a hose has become disconnected or developed a hole, then the bilge pump can’t do the job. Your problem may not be in the pump itself, but in the connections.

Placement

Priming the Pump

Drawing in Water

Discharge of Water

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

• Wire
• Heat gun
• Bilge pump
• Boat
• Mounting bracket

Step 1

Subdue the pump with restraint brackets. If a bilge pump falls over, it will suck air and burn out. Also make sure to fasten the float switch securely.

Step 2

Add smooth interior hoses to the pump to increase output. Make the hose run straight and short.

Step 3

Construct the bilge pump housing so that the discharge fitting is never below the waterline. You do not want the battery to become depleted due to a continuous siphon flow of water.

Step 4

Get the maximum effort out of the bilge pump. Use a through-hull fitting with the largest opening.

Step 5

Run the wires from the pump up the interior of the housing and secure them so that they do not sag in the bilge water.

Step 6

Tuck the wires into heat shrink tubing to make them water tight. Shrink the tubing with a heat gun.

Step 7

Assemble the battery connection so that when the boat motor is turned off, the bilge pump remains turned on.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

• Attwood Blower Motor (2 or more)
• marine exhaust tubing
• pliers
• screwdriver
• large plastic zip-ties
• aluminum duct metal screw clamp
• silicone caulk

Step 1

A typical blower setup on a boat is comprised of an intake vent on one side of the boat and an exhaust vent on the other side of the boat. The intake vent brings fresh air down into the engine bay through an intake duct and then blows the exhaust and fumes out of the boat through the exhaust vent. All exhaust vents have a blower motor or “bilge blower” that simple helps to cleat the engine compartment of fumes. When installing an in-line blower motor, you are simply attaching it between the ducting to help increase the exhaust air flow. Most boats only have one blower motor, but if you have a large boat (30 feet plus) you will want to install more than one in-line blower motors.

Step 2

The first step is to clear out your bilge and engine compartment of any water, leaves, or old water scum. Once the engine compartment and bilge are clean, you can look down inside the bilge and engine compartment to see how much room you have to work with.

Step 3

Now locate the vents on your boat – these are usually at the rear of the boat, located at both sides and just above the engine compartment.

Step 4

Next get inside your boat and look up under the engine compartment to take a look at your current venting system to see how the airflow is setup. The picture shows what the marine venting tubing may look like.

Step 5

Start at the vents at the back of your boat, and then follow the duct work down into your engine compartment and bilge holding area. Do not be alarmed if you see that your ducting coming from the intake vents suddenly just stops in your engine compartment. This is normal because your boat relies on vacuum to suck in air as you are moving and then blow it back out.

Step 6

This picture shows you how the tubing is run from the vents

Next follow your exhaust duct work out to the exhaust vents. The picture attached to this step is what most vents look like on a boat. This picture shows two inline blowers – the white part of the tubes – mounted neat the intake vents. You can do this to draw in extra air as well as use them for exhaust purposes, but this is overkill unless you have a very large boat.

Step 7

I recommend that if your duct work looks old and tattered, that you replace it with marine ducting. You can find this at any marine supply store. Be sure to check the diameter of the duct work. The most common size ducting has a three inch opening – and most blowers are three inches or four inches in diameter. Here is what the common ducting looks like in the picture attached to this step. If you have to replace your duct work, you generally can simply zip-tie it to the vent openings in the bodywork of your boat to keep it secure. I also recommend that you zip tie the ducting to any permanent cables or wires that are mounted in the boat to keep the ducting from moving around.

Step 8

Now that you have the ducting cleaned up and mapped out, you should take a look online for an Attwood inline bilge blower motor. They are a marine grade motor that is easy to install, simple to connect to your ducting, and they also have ignition-proofing, that allows the motor to start up and switch on without sparking. Here is a picture of one of the blower motors that you can find online. It is your preference if you want a 3″ or 4″ diameter blower and the ducting you use can really help to determine this. If you have a large boat (30 feet or more), you can buy two of these and use one of them to help pull in fresh air on the intake ducting, and install the second one on the exhaust ducting.

Step 9

The next step is to simply find a place in your engine compartment that you can mount your new inline motor where it is close enough to the electrical wiring, high enough to avoid getting wet and covered with water, but also effective enough to generate strong airflow through the engine compartment and out the exhaust vent. Make sure that you use silicone caulk to cover the screw holes you create when mounting your bilge blower.

Step 10

Blower installed directly in-line on the exhaust ducting leading to the exhaust vents

You also have two options to install this, and both methods work well. The first option is to install the fan in-line with your exhaust duct tubing. You do not ever install these fans on the intake tubing. What this means is that you basically have a piece of exhaust ducting that starts in the lower chamber of the engine compartment and runs up to the blower motor – is attached to the blower motor – and then the blower motor has ducting that runs from it to the exhaust vent. This method is used to help get deep into a large engine compartment to effectively vent any fumes. Blower motors only blow in one direction so make sure that you point the airflow of the blower motor toward the exhaust vent. The picture will provide an example. If you are going this route, simply screw the blower motor down in place, connect the tubing to the motor and use a worm and screw stainless steel clamp to connect the hoses and the blower. Then zip tie any loose sections of the exhaust tubing down into place. See the photo for reference

Step 11

The second and also equally effective method for installing a blower motor on an exhaust line in a bilge is to simply attach the motor to the end of the exhaust duct – with the airflow pointing toward the exhaust vent and then mount the bilge blower fan down in place. This method works best with smaller engine compartments that can be cleared quickly. This makes the bilge motor work like an exhaust fan in your bathroom. See the picture for reference.

Step 12

The last step is to install the blower motor to a switch on your dashboard so that you can turn it on every time you go out boating. By doing this, you will help to keep your boat operating more safely and within the compliance of marine laws.

Types of Marine Engines

Special Parts and Functions

Burning Fuel

Cooling Systems

Drive and Power

Gears and Auxilary

Cooling

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

• Engine degreaser
• Plastic grocery bags
• Rubber bands
• Screwdriver
• Rags

Step 1

Pull the boat out of the water and tow it to a location where chemical runoff from the cleaning process won’t pollute the waterways.

Step 2

Place a large bucket or barrel below the water exit points in the engine bay to catch the water and chemicals used in the cleaning process. Open or remove the inboard engine cover to make room to work. Bring all of the supplies onboard and place them within easy reach while you’re working in the bay.

Step 3

Cover the fuse box, distributor cap, ignition and any other electronic parts. Use old grocery bags secured with a rubber band to minimize water and chemical exposure.

Step 4

Spray on the degreaser and let it sit per the manufacturer’s instructions. Use a screwdriver to remove heavy dirt and grime deposits while the degreaser does its job.

Step 5

Hose down the engine bay with water to remove the initial coat of buildup. Use a metal brush against metal areas and a soft toothbrush around gaskets and hoses. Remove the chunks and blobs that have fallen to the bay floor with a shop vacuum.

Step 6

Put another coat of degreaser over the engine and wait for it to soak in. Use the brushes on the engine to remove the remaining oil and gunk and vacuum the floor out again.

Step 7

Use engine polish to shine and protect the engine. The engine polish also creates a thin coating to help make the next cleanup easier.

Difficulty: Easy

Instructions

Step 1

Check the oil level. Keep the oil level at the manufacturer’s specifications. Don’t overfill.

Step 2

Trim Fluid. Keep this as per the manufacturer’s specifications too. If not the engine could shut down and alarms will go off.

Step 3

Water intakes on stern drives and outboards.

Keep clean and make sure these are free of debris.

Step 4

Check Propellers. If you beach your boat make sure the propeller has not been bent or scrathed. If the edges are roughed up causes a poop performance or rough ride.

Step 5

Check the fuel quality. If you don’t take your boat out alot the fuel quality could have excess moisture.

Step 6

Clean electrical terminals. Check your battery at the ground connections and positive connection of the engine.

Step 7

Check Emergency shutoff valve. Make sure it is functioning properly so when you are out on the water it still works and won’t shut down unexpectedly.

The most expensive part of a boat is the engine. These tips are for boats three types of engines – inboards, sterndrives, and outboards.

Difficulty: Easy

Instructions

Step 1

Healthy Boat Engine.

Filters.

You can’t change your oil filter and fuel water filters enough.

Changing the filters often keep from buildup of varnish in the carburetors and injectors.

Step 2

Keep out Bacteria.

If you have a Diesel boat and want to fight bacteria add fuels with biocides. If your boat sits for a long time your fuel system should be drained and cleaned.

Gas powered boats should add a treatment to their fuel before storing. There are fuels with additives that claim to eliminate problems caused by standing fuel with ethanol in it.

Step 3

Change your oil. Most manufacturers recommend changing the oil every 100 hours.

Step 4

• Chcek out your spark plugs.
• Change your spark plugs.
• Gas motors and glow plugs in diesel engines get gunked and foul up with oil and fuel.

Difficulty: Easy

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

• Motor flusher
• Garden hose

Step 1

Buy a motor flusher. Some people call these “rabbit ear cuffs” or “ear muffs.” See Additional Resources for where to buy a motor flusher if you don’t already have one.

Step 2

Put the motor flusher device over the air intake on the outdrive motor. Be sure to cover both air intakes on the right and left sides of the outdrive motor.

Step 3

Attach a garden hose to the motor flusher device. The attachment for a garden hose is located on the cuff part of the motor flusher device.

Step 4

Run fresh water through the engine. Turn on the water to the garden hose to begin flushing the engine. The water comes out the air vent holes just as it does when you are out boating.

Step 5

Turn on the engine. You have to do this so the water can circulate through the motor.

Step 6

Check the temperature of the water. As the engine flushes, the water coming out of the air intakes begins to cool. Turn off the engine and the hose when the water feels cool to the touch.

The Pitometer

On a boat, the speedometer is known as a pitometer, sometimes called a pit log. These devices are used to measure a boat’s speed as compared to the water. This differs from a traditional speedometer, which is used only in land vehicles. Both submarines and surface boating craft make use of the pitometer. The device makes use of a tube which goes through the hull of the ship down into the water. This tube has two openings: one measures the speed in which water is moving through the tube, andone which monitors the pressure of the water. When combined, an exact speed of the boating craft can be determined.

The Impeller Log

GPS

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

• Putty knife, kitchen spatula, or other blunt tool
• Hair dryer or heat gun
• Bug or tar remover or other cleaner safe for use on painted surfaces

Step 1

Clean the area around the decal to remove dust, grime or slime.

Step 2

Heat up the decal with a hair dryer until the adhesive starts to release. A heat gun can be used with extreme caution but be very very careful not to get it hot enough to peel the paint off. I perfer to use a hair dryer. It takes longer to heat but it won’t burn or strip the paint.

Step 3

When the heat softens the adhesive you can begin to very slowly peel the decal off. Newer decals come off much easier and tend to stay in one piece. Old decals are very hard to remove and tend to come off one piece at a time. A blunt tool such as a dull putty knife or kitchen spatula can be used to gently scrape stubborned spots. Once the decal is started you can pry gently from underneath. Be patient and don’t rush it.

Step 4

Use Bug or Tar Remover to clean off any sticky residue left over from the decal removal.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

• Paint stripper, acetone or Easy-Off oven cleaner
• Rubber razor
• Sponge

Step 1

Apply paint stripper or acetone according to package directions. Alternately, spray Easy-Off oven cleaner on a section of paint until it’s soaking wet. If you use oven cleaner, work in sections.

Step 2

Allow stripper or oven cleaner to sit long enough to begin melting paint, but do not let it dry.

Step 3

Use a rubber razor and sponge to remove paint.

Step 4

Rinse with clean water.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

• Caustic soda detergent
• Citrus de-greaser, both available at janitorial supply stores
• Soft bristled brush
• Marine specific paint remover, available at marine supply stores
• Wide paint brush
• Clean rags

Step 1

Clean the area with the paint that is to be removed first. Prepare a solution of a 5% caustic soda detergent, and 5% citrus degreaser in a large bucket of warm water. Apply the solution to the surface and scrub with a soft-bristled brush. Rinse thoroughly and dry completely

Step 2

Visit a marine supply store and purchase a marine paint remover. Do not use an ordinary paint remover, or anything that contains methylene chloride. It will damage the gelcoat.

Step 3

Use a wide paint brush and apply the remover to the paint on the gelcoat surface. Leave the remover on for a while, allowing it to soften the paint. When you can begin to rub off the paint with a rag and a little elbow grease, it is ready.

Step 4

Use a generous supply of clean rags and rub off the paint and remover from the gelcoat. It will take a little work, but it will come off. Add more remover as necessary for difficult spots. Rinse the area thoroughly.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

• Respirator
• Gloves
• Protective clothing
• Soft grinding pad
• 36-grit grinding discs
• Grinder
• Sandblaster
• Detergent
• Water
• Scotchbrite pads

Step 1

Use a sandblaster to blast the gelcoat away from the fiberglass. Lightly blast the gelcoat so that the sand does not penetrate the fiberglass. Gelcoating is thin and can be easily sandblasted in a short time.

Step 2

Grind the gelcoat away from the fiberglass using a grinder and 36-grit griding discs on a soft grinding pad. Hold the grinder at a lowered angle to avoid gouging through the gelcoat and into the fiberglass.

Step 3

Scrub the entire area with detergent and then rinse with clean water. This removes any contaminants left on the surface of the fiberglass.

Step 4

Smooth the area with a Scotchbrite pad once the surface is dry. Some contaminants leak out of the fiberglass during the drying process and the pad will remove them. The area is now ready to be repaired and/or recovered with gelcoat or paint.

Normal Washing

Washing of gelcoat is recommended to remove the daily dirt that collects on your boat or car. Wash with a mild, low-acid detergent. Just apply the wash to the gelcoat directly and then rub with a cloth, sponge or towel. Rinse the gelcoat after a washing. Continue to do this every few weeks or as needed to keep the gelcoat shiny and new.

Oxidized Gelcoats

Gelcoats oxidize just like car paint and top coats. The top most layer of the coating breaks down organically in the sunlight and collects contaminants and other dirt. This entire layer needs to be removed in order to restore shine. The treatment is only effective, however, if the oxidization has not worked completely through the gelcoating. Use an oil-based gelcoat wax cleaner to remove this oxidized layer. It should not be abrasive as that will cause additional swirling on the gelcoat. A towel or buffer should be used with this type of cleaner.

Glazing and Waxing

Another product that can restore and clean gelcoat is glaze and wax paste. The paste is mixed with water and, after cleaning the boat with soap and detergent, can be applied with a towel or cloth in small sections. The glaze is worked into the boat to help restore shine. It is a little more labor-intensive but it will help revitalize the most oxidized surfaces.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

• Electric buffer
• Detergent
• Bleach
• Acetone
• Wax/silicone remover
• Polish
• Rubbing Compound
• Wax

Step 1

The first step is to clean the gelcoat thoroughly. Mix detergent and water and wash with a sponge. If you have mildew present, add bleach to the detergent and water. Fish blood or waterline scum may require using a concentrated fiberglass cleaner.

Step 2

The next step is to make sure the surface is free of oil and grease. Wipe the entire surface with a cloth soaked in acetone. Wear protective gloves during this step.

Step 3

3M Imperial Compound and Finishing Material

Depending on how bad the fading a chalking is you may be able to skip this step and go to Step Four. However, you may end up doing Step Four twice if polishing alone does not restore the shine. Choose a rubbing compound made for fiberglass such as 3M’s Imperial Compound (3M-06044). Remove all wax by cleaning the surface in one direction – not back and forth or in circles with cloths saturated with toluene or a de-wax solvent. Rub the compound in a circular motion until the surface turns glassy. An electric buffer can be used to apply the rubbing compound.

Step 4

The next step is to polish the finish. Polish is an abrasive like extremely fine sandpaper. Use a soft cloth to apply to small areas at a time rubbing in a circular motion until the surface becomes glassy. As in Step Three above, an electric buffer can be very useful for this step.

Step 5

3M ultra Performance Paste Wax

After polishing, apply wax to the surface. Instructions vary from brand to brand but generally you apply with a soft cloth or pad in a circular motion. Let the wax dry to a haze and then buff away the excess. Again, an electric buffer is recommended for removing the excess wax.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

• Jacks
• Jackstands
• Small cold chisel
• Hammer
• Pliers
• Wooden dowel
• Brass drift
• Rags
• Replacement bearings and seals
• Wheel bearing grease
• Bearing packing tool
• Race and seal installation tool kit
• Ratchet wrench
• Socket
• Greasegun

Bearng and race removal

Step 1

Place the trailer on a level, solid surface such as a garage floor or driveway.

Step 2

Jack the trailer up and support it securely with jackstands.

Step 3

Place the point of a small cold chisel between the ridge on the dust cover and the edge of the bearing hub. Tap lightly with a small hammer to remove the dust cover. Turn the hub as necessary to facilitate removal of the cover without distorting it.

Step 4

Remove the cotter pin in the center of the large spindle nut.

Step 5

Remove the spindle nut by turning it counterclockwise.

Step 6

Shake the wheel and tire to force the bearing out of the hub. Remove the bearing with your fingers when you can grasp it.

Step 7

Pull the wheel and tire off of the spindle.

Step 8

Remove the excess grease from inside the hub.

Step 9

Place the wheel and tire on the ground, inside down.

Step 10

Drive the inner bearing and seal from the hub with a hardwood dowel. Place the dowel through the hub and strike with a hammer until the bearing and seal fall out.

Step 11

Place a brass drift through the hub and against the inner edge of the bearing race. Move around the race while striking it with a hammer. This will force the race from the hub. Turn the wheel and tire over, and repeat with the outer race.

Installation

Step 1

Prepare a clean work surface on your bench. Lay a clean rag or paper towel down to receive the new bearings.

Step 2

Unpack the bearings and pack with grease. If you do not have access to a bearing packing tool, you can pack the bearings carefully by hand, being sure to fill the bearing completely with grease.

Step 3

Use the proper-size race installation driver and insert the new race into the hub. The proper tool will fit closely inside the new race. Drive the race by striking the installation tool with a hammer until the race is fully seated in the hub. Repeat for the other race.

Step 4

Coat the new races with a thin layer of wheel bearing grease.

Step 5

Place the wheel and tire outside down on the floor and insert the inner wheel bearing. Drive the new seal into place using the seal driving tool and a hammer. The tool will drive the seal to the proper depth.

Step 6

Clean the spindle of all old grease. Wrap the threads on the spindle with tape.

Step 7

Lift the wheel and tire onto the spindle and slide back into place. Remove the tape from the spindle.

Step 8

Install the outer bearing, thrust washer and adjusting nut. Tighten the nut as much as you can with your fingers. This is easier if you wiggle the wheel as you tighten the nut. Do not use a wrench on the nut at this point.

Step 9

Using a socket, tighten the adjusting nut while turning the wheel. Tighten only until you feel a drag.

Step 10

Back off the adjusting nut until it is loose, then retighten approximately 1/4 turn. The wheel should turn freely, with no play in the bearing when you attempt to shake the wheel.

Step 11

Replace the cotter pin with a new one; bend the ends to lock it in place.

Step 12

Replace the dust cover by tapping it in place. To avoid damaging it, use the chisel against the ridge to drive the cover in place.

Step 13

Pump several squirts of grease in the grease fitting.

Step 14

Carefully remove the jackstands from the trailer frame.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

• Lug Wrench
• Allen Wrenches
• Pan
• New Oil(Catslube) or straight 90 weight oil (check bearing manufacturer to ensure or call your dealer)

Step 1

The first step is to take off the hub cover with an allen wrench and loosen lug nuts slightly.

Step 2

Now, jack up the wheel and finish taking lug nuts off and remove wheel.

Step 3

After removing the wheel, put a pan under hub, take allen screw out of the assembly, turn hub to up side down position, and let old oil drain out.

Step 4

After all old oil is out it is time to replace old oil with new oil. You will need to completely fill the sight glass. This makes water less likely to leak back in.

Step 5

Now that you have the new oil in, put in the drain screw, put the wheel back on, let down off jack, tighten lug nuts, and put hub cover back on and you are ready to go.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

• Floor jack
• Jack stand
• Wheel lug wrench
• Large slip-joint pliers
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Parts cleaning solvent
• Compressed air
• Replacement wheel bearings (if needed)
• Replacement cotter pins
• Bearing grease

Step 1

Set wheel chocks on the tire opposite the side to be worked on. This will prevent the trailer from moving while you are working on it.

Step 2

Raise the trailer up with the floor jack. Set a jack stand underneath for safety and remove the tire.

Step 3

Remove the bearing dust cap using the slip-joint pliers. Grasp it firmly and simply wiggle it up and down to loosen. If the cap does not come off easily, carefully pry it off with a screwdriver. Take care not to damage the cap.

Step 4

Remove the cotter pin, castle nut and washer.

Step 5

Pull the wheel hub toward you slightly. This should dislodge the outer wheel bearing. Remove the bearing and remove the wheel hub from the axle shaft.

Step 6

Pry the grease seal from the back side of the hub with a screw driver and discard. Remove the rear bearing.

Step 7

Remove the old grease from the bearings and wash then in a parts cleaning solvent. Be sure to remove all of the grease and solvent.

Step 8

Dry the bearing with compressed air. Do not cause the bearing to spin at high speed. This will damage the bearing.

Step 9

Inspect the bearings. If there is any pitting, scoring, or other damage, the bearings must be replaced.

Step 10

Grease the bearings with a bearing packer and a grease gun. If those things are not handy, simply place a gob of bearing grease on the heel of one hand and force the grease up into the bearing cage from the bottom with the other. It will take a few minutes to do thoroughly, but more grease is better.

Step 11

Replace the rear bearing and carefully tap the grease seal into place with a hammer. Take care not to distort or dent it. If you do, it must be replaced.

Step 12

Replace the wheel hub. Fill the cavity with bearing grease. Replace the front bearing, washer and castle nut.

Step 13

Tighten the nut slowly until resistance is felt when spinning the hub, and then loosen the nut one-half turn. Repeat this several times to make sure the hub is fully seated.

Step 14

Replace the cotter pin, bearing dust cap, and tire. Repeat on other wheel(s).